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Festival Report

A Whiff of Cloves and Music

MELANIE SHARPE sampled Zanzibar’s Sauti za Busara music festival

 

Amani Drummers of Burundi (Javed Jafferji)
Amani Drummers of Burundi (Javed Jafferji)

On a scorching hot Zanzibar afternoon, drummers and trumpet players flood into Stone Town’s Forodhani Gardens. There are acrobats flipping upside down, a man on stilts wearing an alien mask and  a woman in colourful kangas dancing to the music. The seaside gardens are suddenly full of people moving to the rhythm and enjoying the acts.

Minutes later, the Amani drummers begin to play. The well-known drumming troupe was formed 12 years ago by a group of Burundi refugees living in a North-western Tanzanian camp.  They tell stories through their music and chant loudly. Their performance is full of energy and by the end, their bodies are drenched in sweat from the hot sun.  The drummers march out of the gardens playing their massive instruments on their heads to a huge applause.

Zanzibar’s Sauti Za Busara music festival took over the island’s ancient Stone Town from February 9 to 13 this year.  The festivities kicked off with the carnival and drummers who were followed by four nights of top-notch eclectic performances ranging from traditional taraab to hip hop and reggae, acoustic folk and Afro fusion.  More than 40 groups took part in the events. There were artists from all over East Africa including Kenya’s Olith Ratego and Makadem, and Uganda’s Jose Chameleon. Performers also came from Senegal, Zimbabwe, and Europe. 

...a very intimate vibe (Masoud Khamis)
...a very intimate vibe (Masoud Khamis)

Started by Yusuf Mahmoud and his Zanzibar-based non-profit Busara  Promotions, Sauti za Busara has grown every year since its  inception in 2004.  Originally only a three-day event, this year the festivities lasted almost a week and staff at Busara has doubled from two to four people over the last year.  Of course, the Zanzibar festival is smaller than some of the other big name music events across the continent. It only had one stage, and four days of live music. But the size of the festival is one of its best features, creating a very intimate vibe on the beautiful island.  Musicians and organisers are easy to access as a spectator. Bumping into performers on the narrow streets of Stone Town or in one of its popular cafés is common. And combined with the high quality line-up of performers and professionally planned events, everyone at the 2007 festival seemed to be having an amazing time. The organiser’s made sure all the events were accessible to both tourists and locals with fair admission rates and free entry before sunset everyday.

But more than just a music festival, Sauti Za Busara 2007 was also a showcase of Swahili culture.  The main stage was located inside Zanzibar’s 16th century  fort, a good-sized venue that had a loud sound system and great atmosphere.  There were dhow races one afternoon from Serena beach, craft sales, fashion shows and music breaks for Muslim prayer time everyday.  The festival also put a lot emphasis on local talent. About half of the acts were either from mainland Tanzania or Zanzibar itself. 

This year’s festival also honoured the island’s Queen of Taraab, Bi Kidude.  An hour-long documentary on the 90-something-year-old living legend premiered in the Old Fort on the festival’s first night. The film drew a standing-room only crowd, with 2,500 people gathering in the incredible outdoor cinema. It was an emotional moment when Kidude and the new documentary received a standing ovation from her hometown crowd.

Ellika & Solo from Sweden & Senegal (Peter Bennett) Didier Awadi (Javed Jafferji) Jose Chameleone (Masoud Khamis)
Ellika & Solo (Peter Bennett)
Didier Awadi (Javed Jafferji)
Jose Chameleone (Masoud Khamis)

Of course there were also some really great performances.  The duo of Ellika & Solo, her a Swedish fiddler and him a kora player from Senegal played twice during the festival and became a fan favourite.  Didier Awadi and PHAT 4 from Senegal got the entire crowd on their feet with their politically charged hip-hop beats, while Jose Chameleone put on a high-energy show, bouncing all over the stage in a gold crown and Bob Marley T-shirt. There were also some beautiful Zanzibari Taraab performances all over town.

Not unexpectedly, there were a few problems. Parts of the festival and the entire final all-night party on Kendwa beach were run off generators because of the island’s power problems.  It rained one night so the music ended early and strong winds delayed and almost cancelled the dhow races.  But these quirks are expected and only added to the character of the well-organised event.

Over the next few years, Sauti Za Busara will probably grow even bigger, and it’s definitely worth the trip to check it out.  

Sunday Nation. Nairobi

Publication Date: 2 March 2007

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